Laura-Lyn’s cousin, Sharron Bates, had told us of a B&B in Zagorolo, a small city about 30 minutes by train from Rome and the wonderful hospitality she had received from its hosts, Ivano and Terhi. We took Sharron’s recommendation, contacted them via e-mail, and they said they’d be happy to have us as their guests.
They were terrific hosts; they fed us one night, they provided us with train and museum passes and dropped us off and picked us up from the train to and from Rome from Zagorolo.
Between their house and Ivano’s parents who live at the other end of the property, there is a lovely olive garden and the two bedroom cottage we used for our 4 night stay in Zagorolo and Rome. Ivano is hard at work on an addition to the main part of the B&B to create a common room and additional spaces for their guests.
On the day we left Zagorolo, Terhi (she is Finnish, worked for the Finnish airline and has spent time in Rome since 1984 during which she met and married Ivano) was kind enough to take us on a tour of the city of Zagorolo.
The Zagorolo old city and sited on a ridge. There is one main street that runs down the middle of the ridge. The houses and businesses in the old city are on either side of this main street, in some cases clinging to the side of the ridge (see second picture below).
This is a view down the main street in one direction.

This view shows the houses on one side of the Zagorolo old town ‘ridge’. The front of these houses would not be on the main street; there is a small network of pedestrian lanes that link about 3 rows of housing to the main street. This picture would show about the third row of housing off the main street.
Part of Terhi’s tour included a visit to a bakery that has been in continuous operation by the same family for over 100 years and a number of generations. This is the current patriarch, apparently in his 80s, who has passed the operation of the family business to his son. He stands beside the wood- burning oven that is used to cook the break and other items that they sell.
The container to the left of the photo below contains the ashes of the wood that has burned to heat the oven. A special broom sweeps them out of the oven and onto this metal ledge and then, through a hole in the ledge, into the bin for disposal.
The wood that will be burned to make next day’s bread was arriving for storage until it would be used to start the fire in the oven in the middle of the night.
There were a number of butcher shops along Zagorolo’s main street – one of this one’s specialties was horse meat.
