Dec 14 – 16, 2008 – Areopoli, Greece – Caves of Doros and the circle drive south of Areopoli

The Caves of Doros are about 5 kms from Areopoli and are similar to some of the large caves in North America, particularly the US. 

Apparently these Caves there are about 14 kms of interconnected caves filled with stalactites and stalagmites.  Of the 14 kms, about 1.5 km are open to the public and navigable by shallow draught skiff and on foot.

We decided to visit the caves and presented ourselves at their location on the Bay of Doros. 

They provided a guide who guided a skiff through about the first 1 km of the cave open to the public.  There were a number of spectacular parts to the cave that were similar to this example.

The the guide dropped us off and we continued along a well-marked path on foot.  This is a typical stretch of the foot path that lead us through other parts of the cave and roughly back to the point where we had entered the cave.

 

We then continued driving south over some fairly isolated but beautiful parts of the Peloponnese peninsula.  This was a typical view.

This is the southern tip of the peninsula.  We didn’t go all the way to lands end – but cut across this to the other side of the peninsula.

The highway was twisty and one-lane in a number of spots.  I thought I had left the risky driving behind once I left the cities but but these roads required focus.  In typical Greek highway fashion, there were not too many guard rails to break your fall if you miscalculated on a corner.

In all, a great drive, but we were also glad to see the lights of our hotel and get the fireplace started in our room.

Dec 14 – 16, 2008 – Areopoli, Greece – Monemvasia

Everyone we’d spoken to since we’d been on the Peloponnese peninsula had told us to make sure we visited Monemvasia.  So when we made our plans and decided to stay in Areopoli, we planned a day trip to Monemvasia.  It was about a 1.5 hour drive from Areopoli to Monemvasia.  On the way we passed a this type of church in almost every small town or village.

We also passed a viewpoint, including a wide spot in the road which are rare in Greece, overlooking the beach and this small freighter rusting on the beach.

When we finally arrived at Monemvasia, you can’t even see it.  You arrive in a city called Gefyra on the mainland that connects to the large rock on which Monemvasia is located via the causeway shown in the picture below.

We’ve traversed the causeway and are making our way around the rock – and you still can’t see Monemvasia.

Finally, you round a bend and there is one of the walls and the gate of Monemvasia.

Passing through the gate and walking up a short pedestrian walkway (there are no cars in Monemvasia) you finally see the village.  Historically, there were three parts to the city divided into two levels – upper and lower.  On the upper level was a fortified Byzantine citadel that was surrounded by a fortified village.  On the lower level there was also a fortified village. 

Today, the upper village is in ruin and of interest only to tourists.  Everything else is located in the lower village that is surrounded by a fortress wall and gate.  This is a picture of the lower village looking up to the upper village and, above that, the citadel.

A winding path takes a pedestrian from the lower to upper village sites.

Once on the upper village level, the citadel becomes visible.

The fortifications of the upper village are in ruins and scattered across the top.  This is a view of Monemvasia’s ’sister city’, Gefyra, from the top.

We’ve mentioned before that the Greeks have a different approach to safeguarding their historical sites.  I think its based on Darwinian principles.   This drop is about 200 meters and was protected by a couple of large stones about 18-24 inches high.

 

Here is a view of the lower village on the path down from the upper village.

This view is looking back up to the lower village from the corner of the ocean-side fortress wall.

After spending a couple of hours at Monemvasia, we walked back alongside its big rock to the causeway where we’d parked our car and were passed by this gent riding sidesaddle.   It was a great day and met the expectations set by all those who suggested we visit.

Dec 14 – 16, 2008 – Areopoli, Greece – Hotel Elixirion

Areopoli, and the Hotel Elixirion, are located in the southern part of the central peninsula of the Peloponnese in an area known locally as Mani.  Those that live here claim to be the only Greeks that never succumbed to foreign invasion.  After visiting it I can see why invading armies might not be in a rush to claim it as their own.

The land is hilly, doesn’t appear to be very fertile, and is covered with gray rock and green scrub.  Here and there there are some olive groves, but none of the oranges or lemons we saw further east.

Apparently the Maniots were a law unto themselves and the various clans fought feuds for the arable land.  They built their houses with some of the defensive features of fortresses, a design that lives on in today’s architecture.

This is the Hotel Elixirion where we stayed.  It is about 5 kms outside of Areopoli in a small village called Itilo that is located on its own bay.  Note the fortress like roof-line.  Our suite was the on the top floor on the left.

This is a close up view of the hotel.  As we noted many times on our trip, the buildings of an area are made from building materials available in that area.  In this area, the available material was gray stone.  This picture makes me think it wasn’t only the watchtower-like roof line that reflected the Maniots past.  These arches look quite like the entrance to any castle.

We took this picture because these two buildings that were further up the road from our hotel showed the two dominant colored stones. The one on the left is the gray stone and the one on the right is lighter, almost brown in color with almost orange highlights in the stone.

A view of the bay on which the Hotel was located.  Quite unspoiled so far, very peaceful.  Another place that we’d now like to see in the summer, just for contrast.